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The look evokes associations as numerous as the women who have posed for his camera. I thought ‘I have to be friends with this guy right away!’” Outside his circle, Meisel is said to be enigmatic and secretive, appearing in public under the defensive line of a hat, scarf, dark glasses, and long black hair, from which only a hint of makeup or a crafted eyebrow escapes.

Another long-time friend of Meisel’s, designer Anna Sui, remembers their first encounter vividly: “He had such a presence and was so amazing to look at. “When I met Steven I was struck by his beauty: what a beautiful man, beautiful skin and beautiful cheekbones he hasn’t changed!” Naomi Campbell tells me, bubbling. The voice of countless magazine and advertisement pages, of cool constructed beauty perhaps the voice of fashion itself, or at the very least its timekeeper for nearly a quarter century, materialized over the telephone and it was, like that photo of Dietrich, unexpectedly candid, grizzled, and warm.

Although Steven Meisel and I spoke two Sundays in a row, we never met face to face and I was left to visualize our conversation on my own. In 1930 Eric Salomon photographed Marlene Dietrich in the most candid way: slumped in bed while on the phone, a pose totally and disarmingly natural. Considered the world’s greatest fashion photographer, a rare interview gets us just that much closer to finding out: who is STEVEN MEISEL? Fashion’s ultimate enigma has had Vogue Italia’ s cover under his spell for the past twenty years, nonstop.